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Chips - Joe's Valley, UT

Inertia Kick!
I have been working on inertia kicks in the gym and finally got to use it outside! Chips (V7) starts on underclings with a right knee bar. Right hand crosses to the incut crimp. Keep the left hand undercling as you move your left foot up on the rail below the right hand and the right knee bar turns to a right toe-hook. Left hand moves around the arete to a small incut dish. Switch feet on the rail and move left foot to a small edge below the left hand. Bump left hand to the flat side-pull, then bump again to the upper more vertical side-pull. The lower part of the side-pull is key because of the texture. Look up at the tick mark for the jug (you are going to throw blind to it). Do a small counter-movement with your legs and inertia kick with the right leg, hiii-ya!! The jug is gooood. My beta for the top is really bad, as I had no clue what to find up there and I am terrible at top-outs. The holds on top are a bit slopey but close enough to situate your body.


Chips - V7 from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Team Effort Stand - Joe's Valley, UT

This definitely took some team work between Erica, Kristen and myself. The first move is pretty big, but once you hit the lower part of the hold, you can bump the right hand higher until its basically awesome. The left hand shifts around to make room for the heel hook for the next move. The left pocket is a good intermediate before bumping to the sloper crimp. To reach the sloper crimp, the right foot should be placed on the small feature directly below the hips. Get the sloper crimp, keep the heel and grab the sloper knob (now I think I am just making up names for holds). Switch the heel to a toe and go for the jug. If you are Kristen's height (5'3"), you can use the start hold for a right foot before going for the jug, this creates a higher percentage move. Kristen sent, so we dubbed it a "Team Send."

Team Effort Stand - V6 from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Bedwetters - Chattanooga

Kasia Pietras climbing "Bedwetters" (V9). Video provided by Kevin Richardson.

Kasia Pietras sending Bedwetters from kevin richardson on Vimeo.

Loaded with Power - Hueco Tanks

Katja Vidmar just did her first V11 in Hueco Tanks. Check out her video climbing "Loaded with Power" (V10) provided by Gašper Bratina.

Katja Vidmar; Loaded with power V10 from Gašper Bratina on Vimeo.

les Médisances - Fontainebleau

Another nice video from Jackie Hueftle of her travels in France. Les Medisances (7a+) is a boulder problem of balance and sloper strength. Climber: Marjo.

les Médisances :: 7a+ :: Cuvier Rempart :: Fontainebleau from Jackie Hueftle on Vimeo.

Wills A Fire - Joe's Valley, UT

One of the exceptional attributes about Joe's is that there are a variety of quality V6's. Some are questionable about the rating, especially when it comes to reach, but they are all worth a good try. "Wills A Fire" is probably one of the best V6's I have done, next to "Star Crossed Lovers" in Red Cliff.

The first move is a bit awkward. Go up left hand to a good slot, then match. Bring right foot up out to the right small edge. Go up right hand to good slot, but bump to the right side. Match. The next few moves can be done about 3 different ways. I decided to go left hand to the big pocket, then right hand to the next pocket. The crux for me was to cross to the crack and match. Most girls have gone up left hand to the pocket, then right hand undercling that is situated just above the right side jug (that is not used in the video). They then move left hand to the next pocket, which puts you in a better position to move to the crack/gaston. The next move to the crimp is a bit committing, but the hold is really good. Match the crimp and throw to a good sloper jug with the left. Right foot high and mantle to the massive awesome jug with the right hand and done!

Wills A Fire, Joe's Valley, UT from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.