Moe's Valley, UT

Lindner's Roof

There is something to be said for pure determination. In order to attain your climbing goal, sometimes you just have to be fierce and stubborn. Working out moves and linking the beta is just one small part of climbing a grade that pushes your limits. To send the first of the grade, you have to have guts and passion (I know... cheesy). When you become passionate about something though, more than likely, it comes with a lot of disappointment. But this is generally overridden by the success you achieve after the hard work. In this video, Katinka climbs her first V9, and does so with conviction.

Katinka is sponsored by: Chillaz & Evolv

Katinka Mühlschlegel climbs "Lindner's Roof", V9 (fb 7c) in Moe's Valley, Utah from Axel Perschmann on Vimeo.

Bishop, CA

Stained Glass

Alex Johnson was in Bishop at the start of this year and has sent a few tough climbs, including Haroun and the Sea of Stories (V11/12). Congrats to Alex for a successful start to the year! In this video, you see her totally making this V10 look easy, and uses a cool drop knee to grab the left gaston plus a perfect dynamic move for the finish (she does a great job of generating momentum from the left foot). Thanks to Matthew Birch for the video footage.

Alex is sponsored by: a lot of companies... 

Alex Johnson. Stained Glass. from Matthew Birch on Vimeo.

Training Movement through Repetition

Here is the first of many training videos that we will be posting on this site. For the last few years, Flannery has been learning and developing a system to analyze climbing footage and helping girls and guys improve their technique. It is our hope that you will gain some insight from Flannery and Sarah's discussion and get psyched to train as well.

Training Movement Through Repetition from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

RMNP, CO - Tommy's Arete

Tommy's Arete

This is a must do climb, located in Lower Chaos Canyon, RNMP. This is roughly a 15 move power endurance climb with tricky moves at the top. Good spotters needed! Katinka has these moves dialed.  

Katinka Mühlschlegel sending the Classic "Tommy's Arete", V7 in RMNP, Lower Chaos from Axel Perschmann on Vimeo.

Joe's Valley, UT

Kill By Numbers
This problem can be found near the Mine Cart area on the Left Fork. Great roof climbing with big moves, one of the best of the grade in Joe's. Katinka (5'5" with 0 ape) does a great job pressing with her feet to create momentum for the first few dynamic moves.
Katinka's Sponsors: Evolv, Chillaz


Katinka Mühlschlegel sending "Killed by Numbers", V5 in Joe's Valley, Left Fork from Axel Perschmann on Vimeo.




Brawny Dyno
Not so much of a dyno if you match the right handhold.

Joe's Valley, UT - Brawny Dyno from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Newlin Creek, CO

Tojo Risen

Newlin Creek has possibly some of the best granite in Colorado. It is totally worth the drive. You can find plenty of moderates in the main area and some gems in the new sectors. I think this could be a place for potential female FA's. Tojo Risen is one of my favorite climbs there, with one of the best pinches around, and to top it off, you start with a heel-toe cam. In this clip, Kristen does a great job of heel hooking the slab for the crux move. Others, who generally have poor flexibility (like me), campus the next move after the rail. 

Newlin Creek, CO - Tojo Risen from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Pineapple Express
Jugs for opening moves with a key heel-toe cam. Tough bottom moves with a left hand bump for the crux. Others crossed with right hand for the crux. Top out is some what slopey.

Newlin Creek, CO - Pineapple Express from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Red Rocks, NV - Monkey Bar Direct

Here is Monkey Bar direct with the "direct" foot work. This video is somewhat poor quality as you can't see the holds. Better footage to come! Drop knee for first move set the fingers in the pocket with less pain. I went with the bump move at the second crux point. I have seen others place their right foot on a good edge out right and cross to the crimp. This is also good beta if you don't have the reach.

Red Rocks, NV - Monkey Bar Direct from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Red Rocks, NV - Monkey Bar Traverse

Here is Katinka Muelschlegel on Monkey Bar Traverse. In the new guide book "Southern Nevada Bouldering" by Tom Moulin, they give this thing V7 and you can start on the jugs a few moves up from the very bottom. This is a very nice climb with lots of crimps. Katinka uses the cross beta at the crux with a drop knee, very effective. Enjoy!

Red Rocks, NV - Monkey Bar Traverse from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Red Rocks, NV - The Pearl

First post of this blog. Quite exciting really. In this clip, you will find me, Mercedes (5'6" with 0 ape), climbing The Pearl. This is probably one of the more classic climbs in the area. If you go, you should definitely do this one, even if it frustrates you. I used the more reachy beta. I was quite extended for the first move. Katinka Muehlschlegel (not shown in this video) uses a right gaston on the first feature to bump up to the crimp, then moves left hand to the intermediate before latching the jug.

Red Rocks, NV - The Pearl from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.