This blog was created in hopes to propel and ignite the female bouldering scene with climbing videos from women all over the world, as well as provide some climbing performance information to help push the envelope. Improvement is a work in progress and with just a bit more information, girl beta and motivation, more girls will be crushing the rocks.
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Chips - Joe's Valley, UT
I have been working on inertia kicks in the gym and finally got to use it outside! Chips (V7) starts on underclings with a right knee bar. Right hand crosses to the incut crimp. Keep the left hand undercling as you move your left foot up on the rail below the right hand and the right knee bar turns to a right toe-hook. Left hand moves around the arete to a small incut dish. Switch feet on the rail and move left foot to a small edge below the left hand. Bump left hand to the flat side-pull, then bump again to the upper more vertical side-pull. The lower part of the side-pull is key because of the texture. Look up at the tick mark for the jug (you are going to throw blind to it). Do a small counter-movement with your legs and inertia kick with the right leg, hiii-ya!! The jug is gooood. My beta for the top is really bad, as I had no clue what to find up there and I am terrible at top-outs. The holds on top are a bit slopey but close enough to situate your body.
Chips - V7 from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.
Tuesday, March 22, 2011
Team Effort Stand - Joe's Valley, UT
Monday, March 21, 2011
Bedwetters - Chattanooga
Kasia Pietras sending Bedwetters from kevin richardson on Vimeo.
Loaded with Power - Hueco Tanks
Katja Vidmar; Loaded with power V10 from Gašper Bratina on Vimeo.
les Médisances - Fontainebleau
les Médisances :: 7a+ :: Cuvier Rempart :: Fontainebleau from Jackie Hueftle on Vimeo.
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
Wills A Fire - Joe's Valley, UT
The first move is a bit awkward. Go up left hand to a good slot, then match. Bring right foot up out to the right small edge. Go up right hand to good slot, but bump to the right side. Match. The next few moves can be done about 3 different ways. I decided to go left hand to the big pocket, then right hand to the next pocket. The crux for me was to cross to the crack and match. Most girls have gone up left hand to the pocket, then right hand undercling that is situated just above the right side jug (that is not used in the video). They then move left hand to the next pocket, which puts you in a better position to move to the crack/gaston. The next move to the crimp is a bit committing, but the hold is really good. Match the crimp and throw to a good sloper jug with the left. Right foot high and mantle to the massive awesome jug with the right hand and done!
Wills A Fire, Joe's Valley, UT from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.
Monday, March 14, 2011
Brasil - Fontainebleau
Brasil :: 7a :: Oiseaux :: Fontainebleau :: France from Jackie Hueftle on Vimeo.
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Spam - Joe's Valley, UT
Spam is known for its tough yet fun mantle for the top out. Through your right heel up to the shallow scoop and start turning it into a total foot scum (You will be using the edge of the foot. The heel tends to slip off if you don't get your toe down). I use the first right hand side-pull over the lip to bring my hips up, then bump to the second side pull (Some match the side-pull, however, this made me barn-door and fall to the ground, missing the pads). The foot scum is flipped to a toe and the left hand flips to a mantle. It's a committing press, but it sticks!
Also - if you are a girl, or know of a girl who likes to crush boulders, you can film it and send it to me. I am getting sick of watching myself climb these boulders :).
Bouldering at Joe's Valley Utah - Spam V7, Bring the Heatwhole V8 - flash, and Freak V10 from Ivo Penchev on Vimeo.