New Site!!!

Girl Beta has a new face, which is probably better :)

Since we have been getting a lot of videos and a lot of traffic, we decided to go to a Word Press site to give you better quality media. Girl Beta has also teamed up with Vertical Girl to expand this project! So excited!

Visit the new site: http://girlbeta.com/

Chips - Joe's Valley, UT

Inertia Kick!
I have been working on inertia kicks in the gym and finally got to use it outside! Chips (V7) starts on underclings with a right knee bar. Right hand crosses to the incut crimp. Keep the left hand undercling as you move your left foot up on the rail below the right hand and the right knee bar turns to a right toe-hook. Left hand moves around the arete to a small incut dish. Switch feet on the rail and move left foot to a small edge below the left hand. Bump left hand to the flat side-pull, then bump again to the upper more vertical side-pull. The lower part of the side-pull is key because of the texture. Look up at the tick mark for the jug (you are going to throw blind to it). Do a small counter-movement with your legs and inertia kick with the right leg, hiii-ya!! The jug is gooood. My beta for the top is really bad, as I had no clue what to find up there and I am terrible at top-outs. The holds on top are a bit slopey but close enough to situate your body.


Chips - V7 from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Team Effort Stand - Joe's Valley, UT

This definitely took some team work between Erica, Kristen and myself. The first move is pretty big, but once you hit the lower part of the hold, you can bump the right hand higher until its basically awesome. The left hand shifts around to make room for the heel hook for the next move. The left pocket is a good intermediate before bumping to the sloper crimp. To reach the sloper crimp, the right foot should be placed on the small feature directly below the hips. Get the sloper crimp, keep the heel and grab the sloper knob (now I think I am just making up names for holds). Switch the heel to a toe and go for the jug. If you are Kristen's height (5'3"), you can use the start hold for a right foot before going for the jug, this creates a higher percentage move. Kristen sent, so we dubbed it a "Team Send."

Team Effort Stand - V6 from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Bedwetters - Chattanooga

Kasia Pietras climbing "Bedwetters" (V9). Video provided by Kevin Richardson.

Kasia Pietras sending Bedwetters from kevin richardson on Vimeo.

Loaded with Power - Hueco Tanks

Katja Vidmar just did her first V11 in Hueco Tanks. Check out her video climbing "Loaded with Power" (V10) provided by Gašper Bratina.

Katja Vidmar; Loaded with power V10 from Gašper Bratina on Vimeo.

les Médisances - Fontainebleau

Another nice video from Jackie Hueftle of her travels in France. Les Medisances (7a+) is a boulder problem of balance and sloper strength. Climber: Marjo.

les Médisances :: 7a+ :: Cuvier Rempart :: Fontainebleau from Jackie Hueftle on Vimeo.

Wills A Fire - Joe's Valley, UT

One of the exceptional attributes about Joe's is that there are a variety of quality V6's. Some are questionable about the rating, especially when it comes to reach, but they are all worth a good try. "Wills A Fire" is probably one of the best V6's I have done, next to "Star Crossed Lovers" in Red Cliff.

The first move is a bit awkward. Go up left hand to a good slot, then match. Bring right foot up out to the right small edge. Go up right hand to good slot, but bump to the right side. Match. The next few moves can be done about 3 different ways. I decided to go left hand to the big pocket, then right hand to the next pocket. The crux for me was to cross to the crack and match. Most girls have gone up left hand to the pocket, then right hand undercling that is situated just above the right side jug (that is not used in the video). They then move left hand to the next pocket, which puts you in a better position to move to the crack/gaston. The next move to the crimp is a bit committing, but the hold is really good. Match the crimp and throw to a good sloper jug with the left. Right foot high and mantle to the massive awesome jug with the right hand and done!

Wills A Fire, Joe's Valley, UT from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Brasil - Fontainebleau

Jackie Hueftle is currently climbing up a storm in France. She was nice enough to share this video with us. I have never been to Font, but the rock looks amazing!

Brasil :: 7a :: Oiseaux :: Fontainebleau :: France from Jackie Hueftle on Vimeo.

Spam - Joe's Valley, UT

It's March and that means the start of the season at Joe's! Temperatures are optimal during the day, and most boulders are climbable in New Joe's. The Forks boulders will have some snow until the end of the month, however, there are still a lot of boulders that can be topped out. Our trip last weekend was primarily spent at New Joe's. Ivo Penchev provides us with some footage of "Spam" as well as some boy footage of "Bring the Heatwhole" and "Freak".

Spam is known for its tough yet fun mantle for the top out. Through your right heel up to the shallow scoop and start turning it into a total foot scum (You will be using the edge of the foot. The heel tends to slip off if you don't get your toe down). I use the first right hand side-pull over the lip to bring my hips up, then bump to the second side pull (Some match the side-pull, however, this made me barn-door and fall to the ground, missing the pads). The foot scum is flipped to a toe and the left hand flips to a mantle. It's a committing press, but it sticks!

Also - if you are a girl, or know of a girl who likes to crush boulders, you can film it and send it to me. I am getting sick of watching myself climb these boulders :).

Bouldering at Joe's Valley Utah - Spam V7, Bring the Heatwhole V8 - flash, and Freak V10 from Ivo Penchev on Vimeo.

Germ Free Adolscence - Eldorado Canyon

This is a classic problem that has 3 variations, a V5, V7 and V8. This boulder has not seen many female ascents, so a group of friends and I went out to see why that was. We decided to top-rope this thing first, as the crux is the top out. For me, using the toe-hook to match and then move to the lip helped keep my hips in tight to the rock. Although, using this beta, I had no choice but to cut feet at the lip, which was quite committing. I think more females can do this problem, especially once the beta is dailed. Take lots of pads and spotters! Thanks to Ivelin Penchev for the great footage! And thanks for the solid spotting everyone!!

Mercedes K Pollmeier on Germ Free Adolescence V5 - Eldorado Canyon, Colorado from Ivo Penchev on Vimeo.

ABS 12 National Championships

A few weeks ago I was able to catch up with some competitors and coaches of this years ABS Nationals. This segment was sort of thrown together on a whim and I thank Stephanie Marvez for tracking down the climbers and asking more relevant questions than I could have.

In this video: Kelly McBride, Sarah Shaw, Jesse and Tyler Youngwerth, Robyn Raboutou, Alex Johnson, & Angela Payne.

ABS 12 National Championships from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Moe's Valley, UT

Lindner's Roof

There is something to be said for pure determination. In order to attain your climbing goal, sometimes you just have to be fierce and stubborn. Working out moves and linking the beta is just one small part of climbing a grade that pushes your limits. To send the first of the grade, you have to have guts and passion (I know... cheesy). When you become passionate about something though, more than likely, it comes with a lot of disappointment. But this is generally overridden by the success you achieve after the hard work. In this video, Katinka climbs her first V9, and does so with conviction.

Katinka is sponsored by: Chillaz & Evolv

Katinka Mühlschlegel climbs "Lindner's Roof", V9 (fb 7c) in Moe's Valley, Utah from Axel Perschmann on Vimeo.

Bishop, CA

Stained Glass

Alex Johnson was in Bishop at the start of this year and has sent a few tough climbs, including Haroun and the Sea of Stories (V11/12). Congrats to Alex for a successful start to the year! In this video, you see her totally making this V10 look easy, and uses a cool drop knee to grab the left gaston plus a perfect dynamic move for the finish (she does a great job of generating momentum from the left foot). Thanks to Matthew Birch for the video footage.

Alex is sponsored by: a lot of companies... 

Alex Johnson. Stained Glass. from Matthew Birch on Vimeo.

Training Movement through Repetition

Here is the first of many training videos that we will be posting on this site. For the last few years, Flannery has been learning and developing a system to analyze climbing footage and helping girls and guys improve their technique. It is our hope that you will gain some insight from Flannery and Sarah's discussion and get psyched to train as well.

Training Movement Through Repetition from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

RMNP, CO - Tommy's Arete

Tommy's Arete

This is a must do climb, located in Lower Chaos Canyon, RNMP. This is roughly a 15 move power endurance climb with tricky moves at the top. Good spotters needed! Katinka has these moves dialed.  

Katinka Mühlschlegel sending the Classic "Tommy's Arete", V7 in RMNP, Lower Chaos from Axel Perschmann on Vimeo.

Joe's Valley, UT

Kill By Numbers
This problem can be found near the Mine Cart area on the Left Fork. Great roof climbing with big moves, one of the best of the grade in Joe's. Katinka (5'5" with 0 ape) does a great job pressing with her feet to create momentum for the first few dynamic moves.
Katinka's Sponsors: Evolv, Chillaz


Katinka Mühlschlegel sending "Killed by Numbers", V5 in Joe's Valley, Left Fork from Axel Perschmann on Vimeo.




Brawny Dyno
Not so much of a dyno if you match the right handhold.

Joe's Valley, UT - Brawny Dyno from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Newlin Creek, CO

Tojo Risen

Newlin Creek has possibly some of the best granite in Colorado. It is totally worth the drive. You can find plenty of moderates in the main area and some gems in the new sectors. I think this could be a place for potential female FA's. Tojo Risen is one of my favorite climbs there, with one of the best pinches around, and to top it off, you start with a heel-toe cam. In this clip, Kristen does a great job of heel hooking the slab for the crux move. Others, who generally have poor flexibility (like me), campus the next move after the rail. 

Newlin Creek, CO - Tojo Risen from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Pineapple Express
Jugs for opening moves with a key heel-toe cam. Tough bottom moves with a left hand bump for the crux. Others crossed with right hand for the crux. Top out is some what slopey.

Newlin Creek, CO - Pineapple Express from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Red Rocks, NV - Monkey Bar Direct

Here is Monkey Bar direct with the "direct" foot work. This video is somewhat poor quality as you can't see the holds. Better footage to come! Drop knee for first move set the fingers in the pocket with less pain. I went with the bump move at the second crux point. I have seen others place their right foot on a good edge out right and cross to the crimp. This is also good beta if you don't have the reach.

Red Rocks, NV - Monkey Bar Direct from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Red Rocks, NV - Monkey Bar Traverse

Here is Katinka Muelschlegel on Monkey Bar Traverse. In the new guide book "Southern Nevada Bouldering" by Tom Moulin, they give this thing V7 and you can start on the jugs a few moves up from the very bottom. This is a very nice climb with lots of crimps. Katinka uses the cross beta at the crux with a drop knee, very effective. Enjoy!

Red Rocks, NV - Monkey Bar Traverse from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Red Rocks, NV - The Pearl

First post of this blog. Quite exciting really. In this clip, you will find me, Mercedes (5'6" with 0 ape), climbing The Pearl. This is probably one of the more classic climbs in the area. If you go, you should definitely do this one, even if it frustrates you. I used the more reachy beta. I was quite extended for the first move. Katinka Muehlschlegel (not shown in this video) uses a right gaston on the first feature to bump up to the crimp, then moves left hand to the intermediate before latching the jug.

Red Rocks, NV - The Pearl from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.