The first move is a bit awkward. Go up left hand to a good slot, then match. Bring right foot up out to the right small edge. Go up right hand to good slot, but bump to the right side. Match. The next few moves can be done about 3 different ways. I decided to go left hand to the big pocket, then right hand to the next pocket. The crux for me was to cross to the crack and match. Most girls have gone up left hand to the pocket, then right hand undercling that is situated just above the right side jug (that is not used in the video). They then move left hand to the next pocket, which puts you in a better position to move to the crack/gaston. The next move to the crimp is a bit committing, but the hold is really good. Match the crimp and throw to a good sloper jug with the left. Right foot high and mantle to the massive awesome jug with the right hand and done!
Wills A Fire, Joe's Valley, UT from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.
nice! so good!
ReplyDeleteAny suggestions for shortie foot beta for the move at the top where you go from the crack to the pocket? That low pocket toe foot you use was a bit low for me.
ReplyDeleteIve heard people use the high pocket, which seems ridiculous, but that's one option. Also, if you use the low pocket for the left foot, you may be able to bring the right foot a bit higher to press you toward the crimp. My friend Kristen (5'3-5'4) does something like this, but she is going dynamically to the hold. It's a good crimp, so you could try that, but have some trustworthy spotters:) there really is a limited amount of foot holds for that problem. If you get on it and do it, let me know how it goes!!
ReplyDeleteI just got some more beta. One friend does not match the gaston, she keeps her left hand on the pocket and has her right hand on the gaston, left foot in the lower pocket. She said that the lower hand helped her reach across better. Hope this helps you :)
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