Loaded with Power - Hueco Tanks

Katja Vidmar just did her first V11 in Hueco Tanks. Check out her video climbing "Loaded with Power" (V10) provided by Gašper Bratina.

Katja Vidmar; Loaded with power V10 from Gašper Bratina on Vimeo.

les Médisances - Fontainebleau

Another nice video from Jackie Hueftle of her travels in France. Les Medisances (7a+) is a boulder problem of balance and sloper strength. Climber: Marjo.

les Médisances :: 7a+ :: Cuvier Rempart :: Fontainebleau from Jackie Hueftle on Vimeo.

Wills A Fire - Joe's Valley, UT

One of the exceptional attributes about Joe's is that there are a variety of quality V6's. Some are questionable about the rating, especially when it comes to reach, but they are all worth a good try. "Wills A Fire" is probably one of the best V6's I have done, next to "Star Crossed Lovers" in Red Cliff.

The first move is a bit awkward. Go up left hand to a good slot, then match. Bring right foot up out to the right small edge. Go up right hand to good slot, but bump to the right side. Match. The next few moves can be done about 3 different ways. I decided to go left hand to the big pocket, then right hand to the next pocket. The crux for me was to cross to the crack and match. Most girls have gone up left hand to the pocket, then right hand undercling that is situated just above the right side jug (that is not used in the video). They then move left hand to the next pocket, which puts you in a better position to move to the crack/gaston. The next move to the crimp is a bit committing, but the hold is really good. Match the crimp and throw to a good sloper jug with the left. Right foot high and mantle to the massive awesome jug with the right hand and done!

Wills A Fire, Joe's Valley, UT from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

Brasil - Fontainebleau

Jackie Hueftle is currently climbing up a storm in France. She was nice enough to share this video with us. I have never been to Font, but the rock looks amazing!

Brasil :: 7a :: Oiseaux :: Fontainebleau :: France from Jackie Hueftle on Vimeo.

Spam - Joe's Valley, UT

It's March and that means the start of the season at Joe's! Temperatures are optimal during the day, and most boulders are climbable in New Joe's. The Forks boulders will have some snow until the end of the month, however, there are still a lot of boulders that can be topped out. Our trip last weekend was primarily spent at New Joe's. Ivo Penchev provides us with some footage of "Spam" as well as some boy footage of "Bring the Heatwhole" and "Freak".

Spam is known for its tough yet fun mantle for the top out. Through your right heel up to the shallow scoop and start turning it into a total foot scum (You will be using the edge of the foot. The heel tends to slip off if you don't get your toe down). I use the first right hand side-pull over the lip to bring my hips up, then bump to the second side pull (Some match the side-pull, however, this made me barn-door and fall to the ground, missing the pads). The foot scum is flipped to a toe and the left hand flips to a mantle. It's a committing press, but it sticks!

Also - if you are a girl, or know of a girl who likes to crush boulders, you can film it and send it to me. I am getting sick of watching myself climb these boulders :).

Bouldering at Joe's Valley Utah - Spam V7, Bring the Heatwhole V8 - flash, and Freak V10 from Ivo Penchev on Vimeo.

Germ Free Adolscence - Eldorado Canyon

This is a classic problem that has 3 variations, a V5, V7 and V8. This boulder has not seen many female ascents, so a group of friends and I went out to see why that was. We decided to top-rope this thing first, as the crux is the top out. For me, using the toe-hook to match and then move to the lip helped keep my hips in tight to the rock. Although, using this beta, I had no choice but to cut feet at the lip, which was quite committing. I think more females can do this problem, especially once the beta is dailed. Take lots of pads and spotters! Thanks to Ivelin Penchev for the great footage! And thanks for the solid spotting everyone!!

Mercedes K Pollmeier on Germ Free Adolescence V5 - Eldorado Canyon, Colorado from Ivo Penchev on Vimeo.

ABS 12 National Championships

A few weeks ago I was able to catch up with some competitors and coaches of this years ABS Nationals. This segment was sort of thrown together on a whim and I thank Stephanie Marvez for tracking down the climbers and asking more relevant questions than I could have.

In this video: Kelly McBride, Sarah Shaw, Jesse and Tyler Youngwerth, Robyn Raboutou, Alex Johnson, & Angela Payne.

ABS 12 National Championships from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.